The unusual walk of the Blue Lakes of Touvérac

A stone's throw from the small Charentais village of Saint-Maigrin, at the gates of the Charente, nestles a vast forest area of 40ha, a true paradise for hikers and nature enthusiasts. In the heart of this forest, we set off to discover the unusual remains of ancient white clay quarries: the blue ponds of Touvérac. Intoxicated by the sweet scent of the undergrowth, we follow the hiking path from the Charbonnière car park for an invigorating walk in the middle of protected natural spaces. The key: the mysterious lakes with turquoise and crystal clear waters offer breathtaking panoramas.

Bucolic hike in the countryside

Direction Baignes-Sainte-Ragonde located a few kilometers from the site. To access the parking lot at the Lacs Bleus de Touvérac walk site, simply take the D131 for about a kilometer. The site is well signposted, a small coal house welcomes visitors.

The Touvérac quarries site is the property of the kaolin extraction and processing company AGS of Clérac. Since the cessation of exploitation around twenty years ago, nature is gradually regaining its rights and the Regional Conservatory of Natural Spaces of Poitou-Charentes (CREN) is today in charge of managing the site. The industrial activity of clay extraction has left many traces on the landscape, dotting it with a multitude of open-air holes. These old extraction wells, filled with rainwater, have been transformed into lakes over the years. We thus enter a protected site, refuge of biodiversity and true sanctuary for a multitude of animal and plant species.

Two interpretation trails in the heart of the forest

On the other side of the road which adjoins the car park, a first lake is immediately revealed: the Etang de la Charbonnière. It is possible to get around it in 45 minutes by following the path marked with interpretation panels. The history of the 4 lakes that make up this site is explained educationally to understand the geological dynamics of these grandiose landscapes. After this first loop, we return to the parking lot to continue the hike along the “Terrier des Renards” circuit, 3 km long. Depending on your pace, this loop of approximately 1.5 to 2 hours leads to the three other lakes renowned for the color of their waters, which range from turquoise to emerald.

The small, mostly flat path crosses sumptuous, very diverse landscapes as you walk: wooded areas dotted with ferns, mushrooms and lichens, areas of moorland made up of shrubs, shrubs, heather, gorse, reeds and broom. We are enchanted by the beauty of the place, a real breath of fresh air in a green setting. After about half an hour of walking, we follow the small path made among the reeds and tall grass to a first lake which offers a stunning panorama.

A biodiversity sanctuary to observe

Imagine white lands sculpted by flowing water, contrasting with a turquoise blue as intense as a Caribbean lagoon. It’s a wonder, a total change of scenery! We approach the lake below to enjoy the splendid view and the clear waters, characteristic of a very young environment where acidity slows down the development of all aquatic life. These transparent waters, of remarkable purity, harbor no fish, no micro-organisms, nor even any suspended matter to absorb light.

A Caribbean-style paradise

No swimming!

Around the lake, the banks are slippery and unstable; it is easy to sink into the clay that covers the ground by approaching the lake too closely. Kaolinite or kaolin is an ultra-fine clay. When touched, it can be recognized by its sticky and soft sensation. In the last century, when these Charente quarries were exploited, this beautiful white earth was intended for the manufacture of porcelain, ceramics and earthenware but also for the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

Very deep (between 30 and 50 meters), these lakes with a bottom of sticky soap are not suitable for swimming, which is prohibited by municipal decree. The pasty and moving nature of the ground would make it too dangerous and any rescue impossible. The beauty of the place lends itself perfectly to passive contemplation, meditation and many other activities respectful of this fragile environment such as walking or mountain biking.

An unexpected idyllic break, highly recommended for all lovers of nature and the great outdoors!

Article and photos by Lesley Williamson

Did you like our article? Find others on the Guide de la Charente Blog! Find us also on the Facebook page of the Guide de la Charente and on our Instagram account @guidedelacharente